RioRand350W 6-60V PWM DC Brushless Electric Motor Speed Controller with Hall

Works great. I have not pushed it to its limits yet but at about 100 watts you can’t feel any heat.

It took a little bit to figure out the wiring. I was able to crack open my 36V hub motor and clearly read the labels but they didn't correspond to the motor controller.I did have to short the Jumper.As far as getting it to work with an Arduino:- I used an Arduino Nano to test.- Used the PWM.h library to set the pin frequency to 20khz- Connected one Arduino pin to "DIR" line and set pin to "HIGH" or "LOW" for Fwd and Rev.- Used the "G" (Ground), "P" (PWM) and V (5V) connections located by the Jumper to connect to the Arduino. This powered the Arduino as well.Sample code (I am not the best programmer but it worked):// Sample Code for one motor#include <PWM.h> //Used to set pwm frequency to 20khzint Direction = 10; // pin connected to the "Dir"int Motor = 9; // pin connected to "P" PWM Signal input"int32_t frequency = 20000; //frequency (in Hz) 20khzvoid setup() {//initialize all timers except for 0, to save time keeping functionsInitTimersSafe();//sets the frequency for the specified pinbool success = SetPinFrequencySafe(Motor, frequency);//if the pin frequency was set successfully, turn pin 13 on (Built in LED)if (success) {pinMode(13, OUTPUT);digitalWrite(13, HIGH);}pinMode(Direction, OUTPUT);}void loop() {digitalWrite(Direction, HIGH); //Set direction clockwisepwmWrite(Motor, 200); //Spin motor between 0-255, in this case 200delay(5000); // for 5 secondspwmWrite(Motor, 0); //Spind motor downdelay(3000); //for 3 secondsdigitalWrite(Direction, LOW); //Set direction counter clockwisepwmWrite(Motor, 200); //Spin motordelay(5000); // for 5 secondspwmWrite(Motor, 0); //Spin motor downdelay(3000); //for 3 seconds}

This controller ran great out of the box for me. It drove a 24V 6A motor with ease. No heat issues and high torque. If you're going to use the PWM mode to control the speed, make sure you remove the jumper next to the speed pot on the controller board. If it weren't for a couple of gotchas, I would have given it 5 stars.Gotchas:The controllers power down in PWM mode after a few seconds connected to +5V power, and then they don't re-enable. It seems that the PWM channel is very sensitive to noise and so something causes the controller to shut down. I could "wake" it back up by wiggling the wire connected to the +5V power to the controller. If you are using an Arduino, instead of connecting the 5V terminals on the controller to a +5V power source, connect it to one of the Arduino's digital pins instead. These pins are at TTL logic levels (+5V) and they provide enough power to supply the logic on the controller. You can then toggle the pin on and off to enable and disable the controller. When the motor is stopped or you want to stop the motor, set the pin to LOW so it clears the controller of any internal shutdown mechanism. When the motor needs to move, set the pin to HIGH and the controller logic will power up and resume.The brake isn't really a brake. It just cuts the power to the motor and has no holding torque. There's no power that goes to stop any momentum from the motor, so the motor stops itself through friction.This is way cheaper than a lot of controllers out there and I think it's a great value for prototyping mechanical setups without having to spend much money!

I have the Hall Sensor version. Spent a lot of time finding the correct phase wiring order. But hardest part was getting the PWM to work.First:The jumper is needed, mine was just solder pads so I soldered pins and put jumper. Refer to the picture linked to this product.Second:The tiny 5 pin pads on the same side as the jumper, the Vcc and Gnd are same as the screw terminal (for pot). You will need to solder a pin to the one marked "P". I used the screw terminals for Vcc and Gnd (caution, they are 5v). PWM connection to the "P" pin and you are good to go.I am using SEEED nRF52840 and it is 3.3v but it has a 5v pin, I power it off the motor driver and the PWM works great with only 3.3v output from digital pin. I'm running at 20k PWM freq.Only 4 stars as no documentation and a lot of trial and error to run down the wiring.Ok, I changed to 5 stars as I found that the middle pin on the side with my last picture with clip is "PULSE" output. I used interrupt to count the pulses and then divided by 12 to get one revolution.

I bought two of these. One works fine. The other one, PWM does not work. Unfortunately I bought this last year, but just doing the project now. I am assuming if RioRand is reading this, I lost my support? Or replacement window?

The motor is spinning just fine; however, you can't change the spinning direction. The motor is humming and doesn't spin when you activate the DIR terminal by shorting it with GND, as the manufacturer suggests. As an electronics engineer I tried everything, but no luck.I tried to talk with the manufacturer, but they kept sending the same information mentioned in the product description.

Hooked up the motor as labeled on the board. Hooked up power, and turned the on-board pot. Worked first try. Found the datasheet for the driver IC (JY01) and it's actually a nice little device. Sinusoidal commutation for quiet operation.Knocked a star off "easy to use" because there were no instructions and the instructions in this listing are a bit convoluted. I plan to drive this with PWM from an arduino, but it'll take some heavy interpretation to figure out how.

Prompt delivery, product exactly as described. Will use this vender again.