Rust-Oleum 1904A Wolman (Woodlife) CopperCoat Green Wood Preservative-Below Ground, Quart

Why did you pick this product vs others?:Used something like this before to preserve the wood in the ground from the termites and other bugs and rot. Seems to smell like the old stuff I used before long time ago. We shall see how long it last.

good copper solution for treating woodEasy to apply

Went on well

I always find products like this hard to review. The intent is to keep wood from rotting so the ultimate review would be many years down the road and the treated material is still in great condition. That being said, I rebuilt my deck recently. It was 30 years old. Deck boards were rotting. Surprisingly there was no rot on the above ground framing that was rated for ground contact. The ring shank nails pulled through the decking during demo. I needed to grind all of them off. My concern was water infiltration into the top of the framing members from all the nails that remained. I treated the tops of the framing members with coppercoat prior to covering with tape. I also treated all the cut ends of new treated lumber used for revised stairs. This stuff must be good because it smells so bad. Ease of use lost stars because of the PPE requirements. I will definitely use the product in the future on other projects.

I recently had to do a forced remodel of a bathroom thanks to an undetected water leak. When I went to pull the walls apart, I found that the original studs had been coated with copper green, brand unknown. Now since there is not a building contractor in the world that goes above and beyond to do anything more than exactly what is required by contract, i'm supposing that the copper napthenate that the original builders painted on was due to local building codes. So, wanting to stay in compliance and build the rooms back exactly as they were in their original state, I ordered the Woodlife Copper Green to coat the new studs.The product is very thin, goes on with a blackish-blue tint, and is best applied with a two-inch brush. It takes some practice with the brush to get the right amount so that you are not flinging it all over the place and wasting product. Once you have mastered applying the correct amount, it quickly soaks into the wood, and is dry within a few hours. However, it is not completely cured for several days. That being said, during the cure, the stuff will turn green. It will also emit quite noxious fumes. It smells exactly like an auto repair shop, just a bit stronger. Have a fan handy and open the windows for several days.I can't speak for the efficacy of this product. Upon inspection of the original studs that were also coated with copper napthenate, they had rot in them as well, just not as badly as the untreated floor. I honestly don't see where this product adds value or protection, because if your floor has rotted out, you may as well replace your walls as well. Even if the studs have not rotted, they have probably been in the house long enough they have become brittle and will split as soon as you rehang your wall board. Best thing is just to root out all of the wood that has been touched by water and replace it.One small container of Copper Green will coat about 16 studs.

One quart was enough to treat 29” of six 4x4 cedar posts with 2 coats. This treatment supports a post being set 28 inches deep, which was what I needed for the height of fence that I was repairing. Be sure to coppercoat treat at least 1 inch above the depth you plan to set the post because rot damage as post enters the ground is often most aggressive. Do not treat the entire post - only the part of the post in and near the ground level needs rot defense treatment. Wear protective gloves as recommended on the can. I put each post in a 5 gallon bucket as I brushed on the coppercoat so that any excess that ran off as I brushed was captured for re-use (and to avoid runoff excess causing ground toxicity). I applied two treatment layers with a partial dry time between coats of about a one hour. Make sure to use any small remainder of coppercoat treatment as an extra layer on the post ends and around the area of the post that will be near the soil surface. Those surface areas on the post tend to be the most vulnerable points of attack for posts sitting in the ground for long periods. When setting the treated post, tamping in a small layer of gravel in the bottom of the posthole before setting the post may also help reduce rot risk. Posts set in soggy ground may need more coats for longevity, but I am hoping that these treated replacement cedar posts will, like the originals, last 30 to 40 years before they develop any significant rot weakness problems.

Applys easy. Consistency of water.

Ame que me ayudara con el proceso de armar mi casa, el producto es muy bueno