GeeekPi 4X Prototype Breakout DIY Breadboard PCB Shield Board Kit for Raspberry Pi 4 3 2 B+ A+ (Red)

I needed to control a refrigerator and wanted to be able to disconnect the temperature input and power signal output when not in use. For the DB9 connectors shown in the picture, I drilled a 1/8" hole and used super glue on the outer (non-signal) posts in addition to soldering the pins. Very solid, I have no worries about it coming apart when I connect or disconnect the plugs. I feel I should note that this board does not support all 9 pins. You have to chose either the bottom 4 or top 5 pins and clip off the row that you don't need or else it won't fit in the breadboard.

These fit fine. Just be sure to firmly seat the connector into the board before soldering.With these, I mount a small 5V buck regulator on the breadboard and connect it to the 5V terminals on the breadboard. That way, I can run the PI on 12V or even 24V without any issue.I custom 3D print a housing for the PI that will fit this breadboard and buck converter.

It's exactly what it looks like.

Perfect for creating a one off Pi HAT. Hole spacing is correct for components.

I needed to connect 2 2x8 headers and feed 5 2-wire signals to resistors and then to the signal sources. I tested a few of the GPOI 20 pin connector pins to 3rd rail pinouts (all with labels matching the GPIO pinout labels). Confirmed they were good on one board. Assembled the final 5 channel wiring and tested. Two channels failed. Grabbed another untouched board and found multiple opens between GPIO pins and their third row counterpart. Cost me a week of misspent time and reorders, cost my client well over a thousand dollars in my wasted time. Never again will I order this product.

One of the reasons I bought this board was because I thought I would like the traces. I don't.The unpopulated pads in one of the corners drew my attention, and I learned these are for the eeprom that would allow the device to identify itself to a RPi, and is required for a device to conform to HAT specifications. The traces go to pins on the RPi that are dedicated to this purpose (i.e. gpio are not wasted).For me, though, the reason I will look for a replacement is the CSI cable slot is misaligned and put pressure against the cable. My project requires the camera and my solution is to ignore the slot and let the CSI cable snake around the end of the card.

Nice little adapter board for prototyping, but if you're using the camera ribbon cable, the slot through this board isn't quite in the right spot. It will fit, but it pinches the cable pretty badly. I had to cut the slot out on a band saw which was fine, but it destroyed the circuit to add EEPROM.My experience was with a Pi 3.

I usually read the negative reviews but didn't this time. Oops. I bought these boards (red version) for a Raspberry Pi High Quality Camera project and discovered that the slot for the camera ribbon is misaligned. I needed to file the outside edge of the slot a couple of millimeters. That resulted in severing the ground trace to the eeprom as well as the connection between the 5v ground buss and the 3.3v ground buss. I needed to add a jumper to reconnect the ground busses. Otherwise, these are fine. I would rate it 4 for non-camera projects.