General Specialties Flood-Guard for 2" Flood Drains

Please don't buy any other friction plug other than this. I installed one in the late nineties after many sewer backups and it's worked well. If I had removed it and cleaned and oiled it periodically (as recommended) it would still be working. Even at that, I removed it after a sewer backup a few weeks ago because a lot of lint and dog hair had clogged it and I broke the screws (they're stainless) because I hadn't removed it in 20 years. In spite of that I was still able to drill and tap new screw holes until my new plug arrived. I didn't have stainless screws so I was concerned with a steel screw rusting and breaking. My only problem with both was that I put them into a 2 inch pipe floor flange (2.375 in OD) and the threads were so worn and rusty I had to wrap a piece of rubber strip around it to give it a good grip. I couldn't find this type initially and purchased a stainless one from one of the local big box home centers. Whyle looking around I also found a bronze one from one of the local hardware supply houses. You'll see these on Amazon also. They have four screws instead of three. Looked good in the picture but both had similar construction. Instead of the screws being inside the fitting not touching the rubber the screws actually went through the rubber. The diameter of the rubber was a little under 2 inches, same as this one but, once I started screwing it down it kept getting harder and harder to turn the screwdriver because the rubber was pulling against the screws. This also resulted in the rubber not expanding by the screws as much as the rubber where the screws weren't. The result was like a rounded square. I tested it and the water gushed out the fitting. It would probably have worked if the opening was 2 inches exact but both were listed for 2 inch pipe. They both were also made from stamped sheet metal which probably might have worked if the design allowed the rubber to expand evenly around the fitting. The fitting above is made from machined aluminum with no thru holes from the screws. This prevents water from coming through the screw holes but is also why I had to shim it because the screws bottom out in the lower piece of aluminum. If they were through holes I could have tightened the screws more to allow for the worn threads. I know that because the old one I had to drill and tap were through holes and it tightened perfectly without the shim. All in all I prefer this design because it does seal and potentiol water coming through the screw holes. The only thing I've noticed (because I have a wierd drain that drains slowly) is that, although it blocks the water, the suds from the washing machine come out a little because they're not enough to move the float. This is the one to buy.

Easy to install and quality hardware. This was a replacement for what was previously installed. It's very forgiving. Previous house owner incorrectly installed it and also the inside of the drain pipe has bumps/deformaties and yet it still worked for at least a few years. I put it in my basement drain that's next to the furnace and water heater. Pointers - use a large zip tie in the holes so its easier to positon the drain guard and tighten the screws. Slotted screws are used for a reason and not allen screws. The screw head slots give you a reference when tightening to expand the gasket. Tighten the screws a little each at a time to keep the pressure even and drain guard centered (1/2 turn each screw, then 1/4 turn each screw until they are all tight). Also my drain guard didn't work everytime the first time I installed it because the floater part was a tiny bit long and sometimes rubbing the inside of the pipe where my drain pipe curves. The drain would flood when a bubble bath drained. I cut 20% off the bottom of the floater, reinstalled and it works perfectly. The basement bath also has a drain guard and it works fine, but since I don't know how old it is I'll replace it. I'll probably replace them every three years even if they are working since its easy to do and cheap. Although I think they would last longer. I'll also spray some silicone lube on the floater metal rod once in a while which is easy to do since it's right on top of the drain guard.

Installed in a shower after water backup event. Two event since and not a drop of backup. Flow is reduced slightly but not terribly. Was concerned but teenage girls used the shower with the preventer Installed and none had complaints. Easy to install and has saved us time and money. Normal drain cover fits over the top.Suggested this unit to friends and neighbors.

My application is a basement utility room floor drain with routine drainage from air conditioning condensate and overflow from furnace humidifier unit. This drain is not expected to handle any additional routine flow.Unit is sturdy and fit perfectly. Initially concerned because valve travel is zero straight out of the box and basically stuck closed but upon installation tightening the 3 screws that expand the spacer that seal the unit within the drain cause overall height to decrease. Initially tight but I pushed it down the drain pipe passed the small restriction where pipe connects with floor drain fixture and drain pipe diameter slightly larger. Expansion spacer crushes enough to allow in its installed state about 1/4-3/8" vertical travel in the cup that provides the seal against drain backflow.Docked it a star because I think the valve will not handle flow from an event such as a major leak from adjacent hot water heater and there is no documentation to make me think otherwise.This is new house for me and during general inspection discovered prior unit was installed too close to floor drain grate which would have prevented it from functioning and drain was also stuck open. Don't know why it has backflow prevention but basement is partially below grade with septic system and sump pump lifting effluent to the septic system so I assume this is protection in case of pump failure. From that perspective I think this device will work in my application though will require periodic inspection because rubber valve cup/seal on same model of prior valve was significantly degraded for unknown reason. The directions call for grease on valve rod. Be sure to use grease that does not attack rubber.From the documentation and my experience with the old unit I was replacing it sounds like the cupped rubber valve has a tendency to unscrew from its retaining rod. You may want to consider double checking this prior to installation.