4K@60Hz HDMI 2.0 Audio Extractor Converter,HDMI to SPDIF Optical 7.1/5.1CH,Stereo 3.5mm,Supports Scaler,CEC,Dolby Digital Audio De-embed,HDCP 2.2/2.3 Bypass,for PS5,Xbox

TLDR: It works great! No video or audio delays. EDID settings are a huge bonus.Full Story: I have been trying to solve a problem that was incredibly frustrating. I have an older Yamaha receiver. It supports HDMI 2.0, 4k60 HDR. But, when I hooked up my new 4k HDR TV to it to get content from my Roku Ultra - I had constant audio and video drop-outs and the occasional (daily) HDCP error. No worries, I followed the advice from everyone and replaced my HDMI cables with certified HDMI 2.1 cables and made sure they were shorter than 3 meters. Problem did not go away. However, when I connected the Roku Ultra directly to the TV and then used ARC to provide audio to the stereo, all of the drop-outs and HDCP errors went away. I was able to use the controls on the TV to adjust the audio delay and the audio and video are in sync.But, I miss being able to see the display from the receiver on-screen. Knowing the actual volume setting (i.e. -25db) is an important quality-of-life thing and other settings that only appear on screen were missed (like the different DSP settings I had set up for different content). I was willing to deal with that, but the biggest issue I have now is that the receiver takes almost 2 seconds to start to play DD audio when it comes through Arc. This is not a big deal when you just start a show and watch it through to the end, but it is a pain if you pause something and then rewind a few seconds because you want to hear what someone said. This was what made me look for another solution.At first, I wanted to try a splitter. I figured I could send the full 4k signal to the TV and send a separate (ideally 1080p) signal to the receiver. This would not solve the problem of the on-screen content, but it would solve the audio delay issues. I tried 3 splitters, but none of them worked 100% of the time. Too often the Roku ultra box would decide that the TV was only 1080p. Other splitters said they could handle HDR, but they could not because the colors were totally messed up.Then, I thought I would try this guy and send the audio signal through the optical port into the receiver and send the video to the TV. It would not solve the on-screen issue, but it should solve the audio processing delay issue.Now we get to the meat of the review: This guy solved my entire problem. I decided to try to connect him up between the Roku and the Yamaha, and then go from the Yamaha to the TV. So, the HDMI chain goes: ROKU -> Extractor -> Yamaha -> TV. Since the Roku box doesn't "see" the Yamaha, and the Yamaha doesn't "see" the Roku (they both just see the "unknown device" in between them) whatever interaction was causing the drop-outs and HDCP errors have stopped. I'm back to my original setup and have the on-screen display from the receiver as well as the audio being in sync with no delays in starting up. This guy is powered by the USB port on my Yamaha, so it is only on when necessary.As a major bonus, I was able to use the EDID DIP switches to tell the Roku Ultra that my TV only supported HDR10. I don't like the Dolby Vision processing options on my TV and so now the Roku doesn't try to switch to it every time the HDMI is reset, it just sticks to HDR10.After trying 3 different splitters (all returned), upgrading my cables (unnecessarily) and suffering with ARC processing delays, I am finally back to enjoying everything without any drawbacks or compromises. Couldn't be happier.

I have a nice but older Yamaha receiver. it has HDMI ports/switcher. However it is the older standard that only does 1080p. I just got a new 4k TV and now the Video portion on my receiver is of no use anymore. The audio still sounds fantastic. So I got a new 4k Switcher and this audio extractor. It works wonderfully. The 4k video now goes through it but the audio goes to my receiver. Getting the switcher and this unit was significantly less money than getting a new reciever. Would Highly recommend for older receivers and new 4k TV's.

Only reason I bought this device is to stop all the HDCP cable errors I get on my 4K Samsung Smart television. It's a bit old and when I stream some 4K content to it I get the error message that I need a HDCP quality cable...blah blah blah. The only thing that works without this device is setting my t.v. to 1080P. I shouldn't have to do that on a 4K Smart television regardless of how old it is. So I received this device today and installed it, set it to strip out HDCP and voila! It works. No more HDCP cable errors. For the price I think this is the best HDCP bypass/stripper available.

Let’s me record console and fixed PS5 issue i had with HDCP

It does not work when you’re out in the forest.

I am using HDMI from my cable box to my TV and extractor (then to my sound bar) but when switching between them (TV to sound bar) the extractor cuts out and I have to unplug/replug the extractor to get it to come on again. Not very convenient. Otherwise the extractor seems to work ok.

I tried to play 4K movies from a Roku ultra 4K routed thru a Marantz SR6007 4K AVR to a Sony HD4K using HDMI cables. Everything is 4K, it should be just plug and play right? No. HPCP protocol stands in the way. Since ROKU and Sony have HPCD 2.2 protocol, the Marantz despite an excellent piece of gear is HPCD1.4 compatible, The Roku refused to co-operative. Only audio went through.Therefore, I need a HPCD 2.2 to 1.4 adapter between the Roku and the Marantz.I spent hours trying 2 brands (SIIG, Gofanco) with no success. I have no clue as of why they did not work. My guesses are other protocol conflicts that these two automatic devices can't switch into.Thanks to the information on this thread and some hidden clue that it should work.Indeed, it does. Don't be afraid of the EDID switches. It will help you find the right protocol. Just be patient and read the manual before you try it.Suggest steps:1. Set your Roku Manually to 1080 display without using the converter. (read Roku manual)2. Disconnect all HDMI cables. Disconnect all power to all devices(not just turning them off)3. Set the EDID switch of the converter to 110004. Reconnect all cables5. Reconnect power cables in this order: TV, AVR, converter, Roku.You should have a 1080 picture on your TV after waiting for 10-30 seconds (press Home on your Roku).Go ahead and try to change your Roku display resolution to 4K, 4K HDR, 4K Dolby, one at a time, and get the best stable picture and sound. Don't forget to flip the EDID switch to 11000 first.You should stop here and be satisfied. I found the best picture with 11000 unless you use 7.2 Audio.You can play with the EDID switches if you like, but I caution you may have to start all over if Roku refused to co-operate.Good luck!

Just what i needed to bypass the hdcp error code on this subpar tv i have, from what i see it has a variety of audio and video setting to adapt to other devices that have issue displaying video or transmitting audio, highly recommended