Kenwood KSC-PSW8 250W Max (150W RMS) Single 8" Under Seat Powered Subwoofer Enclosure W/Remote Control

I got this for my single cab 2001 ford ranger, hoped it would fit under seats but it was a little too big for that, fit fine along back of cab and packs a pretty good punch for the size. The remote control that came with it is also a bonus, I really like the ability to easily adjust the sub for each song/type of music.Installation was easy enough, they do give you everything you need but I did buy rca cables to run from my head unit to the sub. The ones they give you are supposed to be spliced into the speakers, didt want to do that and had a dedicated set of subwoofer rca outputs in my aftermarket head unit.Overall very happy with it.

I run this in an under seat bracket in my JKU Wrangler and it works well as filler bass but not really as a deep bass sub. If you're realistic about your expectations, it works just fine. If you're looking for "two 12s in the trunk" bass... you'll be disappointed. I have a modern Kenwood Excelon head unit, 2 kicker tweeters and 4 of the Kicker Mopar 6.5" speakers (being fed by a marine Kenwood 600w amp) along with this powered sub and I have gotten the sound to be "pretty good" and that's the best I had hoped for in a Wrangler.The wiring is "adequate" for basic installation and there's enough power wire length to run to the battery from the driver's side seat area on the JK. Make sure to order a set of male to male RCA cables if you plan to use your aftermarket stereo headunit preouts.If you're looking to maintain as much room as possible in your JKU but need some low frequency fill for your music then grab an under seat rack (to keep the sub off the floor in case of water intrusion) from eBay and mount one of these in it.

To be honest, this is a good buy for the money. But if you get one, make sure to install/test it pretty quickly. My first one made a bit of a rattle/fluttering noise when it reached certain volumes or frequency ranges. Almost akin to when you pull on a spring doorstop and let it“Brbrbrbrbbrbr” lolUpon contacting the seller, they sent out a replacement the next day, which I thought was pretty awesome of them. Props to the seller for good customer service.So onto the actual unit. It’s a bit heavier than it’s size would suggest, and feels to be well put together. The outer shell is metal, not some cheap plastic, and the powdercoat paint job looks pristine with a bit of polish. It’s a sleek looking combo sub, and fits pretty well out of sight.Sound is actually pretty good! Don’t expect some mirror rattling, trunk shaking, babe stimulating bass vibrations. It’s an 8” combo sub. Keep your expectations real.I drive an 08 BMW X3, and I can hear/feel the bass in my seat and all around the cabin. It adds some really nice tone to my music, without being overpowering or overwhelming like my dual 10” Alpines used to in my M5, but it definitely keeps up in terms of power with my stereo.On to my favorite part, installation! This unit comes with a specific harness to splice into a stock radio unit, which was the major selling point for me. BMW cars are notorious for having special electronics that all tie together, and in order to add an aftermarket stereo with RCA output, i would need to basically rewrire my whole car. That doesn’t feel worth it to me. The harness included with this sub made it an easy install without having to rip out any wires or redo anything in my car.If you don’t know what you’re doing, WATCH THE YOUTUBE TUTORIALS! There are plenty and they explain every step in better detail than you’ll find in the Q&A section here or in the Kenwood owners manual.All in all, this thing was a good buy for a $200 sub. I do recommend it, especially for those who are running stock stereos without RCA.

Gret for DIY or for shop to install for you. The harderst part was finding and getting to the firewall on my vehicle, but that is verhicle specific. For the 12v line I needed to crimp on a terminal attachment to connect to the battery - I used a spade type but a ring type would work too.I used factory head unit and did not require a line output converter. I used velcro to secure the unit to carpet under passenger seat. I used two runs of quater inch split wire looming to hide the colorful wires that ran under the carpet - you could use half inch but it might be too bulky. All wires ran under passenger side trim. I used one inch foam to level the unit becaues half of it is sitting on an air vent. Ascetically it looks clean with minimal design accents. It is a solid aluminum box with a rubberized matt finish coating. It took me about 6 hours total to figure out if this thing fit, how to wire it to my head unit, and how to temporarily remove the car components to complete install. I used T-splicers for radio (kit with 12-22 guage). Crimping tool for T-splicers and spade terminal attachment. Wire stripping tool to strip the car batter wire, audio wires, and ignition switch wire. Scissors to cut the split loom. Panel removal tools. Wratchet set - for my vehicle I used 1/4'' ratchet, 8mm & 10mm sockets and a 8in extension. Screwdriver for the small screws that secure the wire harness to the subwoofer. Velcro, unless you plan to drill through your floor panels. Toyota highlander xle, without JBL, 2014.