Big Floors GarageTrac Diamond, Interlocking Non-Slip Garage Flooring Tile, Durable, Modular, Heavy-Duty Copolymer, Easy Install (48 Pack), Graphite

Installed these in an hour or so. Garage is 18’ x 18’. Also a small two ft ledge I was able to cover. Easy to work with and install. Looks fantastic! Wife is very happy. Time will tell on wear.Great value for money, ease of cleaning.

The 25-year-old concrete garage floor in the house I purchased had small cracks, paint and oil stains, a few scratches and peeling paint in some area. The more I looked into repairing and repainting the floor, the more I learned about how difficult and expensive this can be. And then I heard horror stories about even the best epoxy coatings showing tire tracks on hot days or even peeling if the surface preparation was not perfect.My prior house had come with this GarageTrac floor garage covering, and for the 11 years I lived in that house it remained perfect - even under my 4,500 lb SUV. So I decided to go that way again in the new house. Installation is very easy if you have the right tools - a hired helper and I got it done in about 6 hrs.Most of the job gets done very quickly; the edging takes more steps. You select a starting spot and begin snapping the tiles together. My packages came in 2 ft. x 2 ft sections of 4 tiles already assembled.No surface prep is needed at all. Just sweep off loose dirt, and knock off anything that protrudes from the surface. Cracks and peeling paint do not need anything done.Now to some tips on installing this floor:1.) Where you start is VERY important.While the material is sitting loosely on the garage floor, it is too heavy to move a big section later on. You want the front edge to be just inside the garage door, with just a small gap. The door needs to close onto the actual garage door, not onto this material. You could just place the edge of a tile right there, but it is better to add these items first (sold separatly:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0755MNVZ9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1The floor material in not too think, but you really need these little ramp pieces to make a smooth transition up to the finished floor level. The tiles themselves have exposed "loops" on 2 edges and hidden pegs that go into those loops on 2 edges.You also need to start with a full tile a short distance (leave 1/4" for expansion) either left or right. The best way to accomplish all of this is to first lay a big "L" - a row of tiles about halfway across the front of the garage, exactly parallel to the opening, with the sloped edges attached, in the right depth so the door closes OK. The other part of the "L" runs from front to back.From that front-to-back portion, snap on a series of tiles until a full tile reaches to a point that is 1/4" from a main side wall. (My garage has steps on one side and intruding cabinets on the other, so I needed top find this spot about 1/3 of the way back.)Remember: these tiles have those protruding loops on 2 edges. Orient the tile so that one edge properly engages the sloped garage-front edging. And you want the edge extending to a side wall to be smooth, without the protruding loops.2.) Attaching tilesThe fit between tiles is very tight. The manufacturer suggest that you stomp the pegs into the loops to attach them. But this is very hard on the feet after a while. For most of them, I used a heavy rubber mallet to tap them together. Since two of us were working on the floor, my partner also did fine with a conventional hammer on a block of wood. These tiles are very tough, but don't hit them directly with a metal hammer.3.) Separating tilesOnce tiles are attached to each other, they really don't want to come apart. But you need to separate some of those 2 x 2 squares to get single tiles, and sometimes you'll make a mistake when laying the floor. The only way I have found to separate them is to place a piece of 2 x 4 under the UP side of a pair that need to come apart, and then hammer down hard through a wood block on the other side of the joint. You'll be afraid of breaking the tile (you won't), but it takes a lot of force.4.) Finishing the starting rows of tiles.It will take you a while and some careful measuring to get these starting tiles in just the right alignment, but it is the most important step in the whole job. Next, add a few more rows of tile along the inside of the "L" along the front and front-to-back section. This makes the whole assembly more stiff, so you can make absolutely sure everything is dead straight and constant distance from front and side.But it won't be. No garage or room of any kind is perfectly square. We'll get to dealing with this.5.) Laying the body of the floor.This is the easiest part. Just tap into place all of the 2x2 sections you can and then separateed 1x2 and 1x1 pieces until all possible full tiles have been laid. Now give yourself a break - you are half done.6.) All the rest of the tiles will require some cutting. The very best way to do this is with a table saw. For each partial tile, carefully measure the distance from the last full tile to the wall, subtract 1/4" and set your rip fence accordingly. On some tiles, you'll need to keep the side having the loops, so you need to compensate for those when the cut requires running those exposed loops along the fence. As with any cutting operation, cut the largest pieces first, so if you make a mistake you can reuse those scraps for smaller pieces.In my garage, I also needed to use a jig saw for small cuts around a pipe and the side tracks for my garage door.My total cost for materials and my helper worked out to just about the same as if I had an epoxy floor covering done. But based upon my prior experience, this floor will last at least a decade - probably longer - and no painted floor can claim that. If I somehow manage to damage one or more floor tiles, they can be replaced.One more tip: We keep our garage rather clean, but we cannot prevent the cars from dripping liquids. So I placed a pair of inexpensive 4' x 6' rubber-edge mats under the front of each car to catch that mess. When they get dirty enough, I drag the mats out to the driveway and hose them off.

This floor was not easy to put together. I'm a 68yo woman. I did all the work myself in three days. It worked out great as I would have to shift things in the garage to complete a section. Something you cannot do if you resurface the floor with epoxy. I saw a YouTube video showing a man just pressing the tiles together with the palms of his hands. No way is that possible! I had my big strong weight lifter son come over to try it and he couldn't either. So you will need a large rubber mallot, knee pads and I suggest work gloves... and patience to complete. I figure that if the connections are that hard to put together then maybe they'll be strong and hold up longer too, so I'm okay with that. I also followed another reviewers advice and laid down weed block fabric to reduce noise which worked great and was easy to do. I noticed when the sun was out and warming the surface, it buckled a tiny bit, so be sure to leave expansion room as it suggests. I love the look! It covered all the 30 plus years of oil stains and paint drips etc and will be so easy to keep clean. I also purchased the edging strip so that my car rolls up on it without a problem. I'm proud of my garage now and thankful this project turned out so well. It was worth the extra effort.

I have an old home with a detached external garage with dirt floors . I didn't plan on covering my whole garage, just enough to go under my snow blower, ride on mower, and shelving units and a pinch extra. I already knew that these types of tiling weren't recommended for use on dirt floors but got them anyways already knowing what I was getting into. Besides the obvious of clearing everything out of garage, more prep work is needed for using these on a dirt floor. You need to try and rake up all the larger pebbles/debris and smooth out the floor as well as possible by eye (you will never get it perfectly level and compacted, and in fact you want the top surface to be a little soft and loose.) It is easier to assemble a 4'x10' section first on a hard surface and bring it in as one piece. Lay the assembled piece to start in a corner with the 'loop sides' both against a wall and work your way out off of this. Unlike on a hard floor if try to simply add another piece and connect it, it won't just snap into place. You'll need a thin board to slide under the seams as you add on, push them firmly to latch (with board underneath) and pull the board out. Once all your tiles are placed (or periodically as going along) you will want to roll (preferably with a heavy roller) from one end to other back and forth along the SEAM closest to wall, then move out one block at a time and repeat (rolling back in forth across each parallel SEAM). Once rolled back in forth all the seams in one direction, start along the perpendicular wall and roll from one end to other back and forth along the seam closest to the wall (and again repeat the process moving out one block at time and roll back in forth across the seam till cover the whole area in other direction (such as horizontal grid seam rolling first then vertical grid seam rolling next or visa versa.)) This helps all the tiles embed firmly and wont slide or pop apart when drive equipment across it later. I've had this flooring installed now for a little over a month, driven my ride on mower across it numerous times and the tiles all stay firmly in place without issue.