Leviton DZPD3-2BW Decora Smart Plug-in Dimmer with Z-Wave Technology, White, 1-Pack

This works great, once I got it properly installed. However, that took 3 days and about 7 phone calls to Leviton support. That's mostly because I was doing a 3-way installation where one box has the load and line and the other box only has a 3-wire bundle (this is called a dead-end box). The instructions only cover a 3-way where one box has the load and the other box has the line. The diagram in the instructions also cost me hours of head-scratching- I'm not an electrician, so maybe it's my fault, but hopefully you can learn from my experience. Here are some tips and detailed instructions, based on my electrical setup. Maybe I can save you some time and frustration.1. Put the connections in under the terminal plates. For some reason, their online video shows the method of wrapping each connection around the terminal screw. But getting the wires wrapped tightly was not always easy, and making changes was time consuming. Just stick the flat wire in under the plate and be done with it!2. If, like me, you are not an electrician, use the wiring diagram for the single pole application for your dimmer and ignore the diagram for the dimmer in the 3-way. If you are looking at the front of your switch, you will see that your line black (hot/from power) goes to the black screw on the right top. The neutral (white) goes to the silver screw on the left top. And the load black (to the lights) goes to the red screw on the left bottom. If you compare the two wiring diagrams, you'll see that the position of the YL/RED terminal appears to switch from the right to the left side of the switch. I thought this had something to do with the way the 3-way circuit worked. It doesn't. It has to do with some technical writer who wanted to draw a straight line from YL/RD to YL/RD. The customer support agent who finally helped me realize this critical mistake chastised me for not looking at the labels of each terminal. These labels are on a sticker on the back of the box, however, so if you've connected your ground, it's really difficult to see the back of the box.3. If you are installing a 3-way, make sure you get the DD00R-DLZ remote. DO NOT GET THE DD0SR. One Amazon page has a chart that says the SR is compatible. It is definitely not.4. If you call customer support, realize not all agents are equally capable of helping you. One agent told me it was impossible to install this switch in a 3-way dead end setup. Luckily, I had already talked with 2 other agents who said it was possible, so I corrected him. He also said that I could leave out the line neutral, because it was unnecessary. Guess what? The line (power/from circuit breaker) neutral is absolutely necessary to complete the circuit.5. In a 3-way dead-end setup, here's how you will have to connect the two switches. First, make sure you have a 3-wire bundle running between the two switches (this actually means 4 wires including the ground). Mine are black, white, and red, so I will refer to them using those colors, but as long as you have three wires and a ground, you're good to go. On the top right (Black terminal), I have the black line (power/ hot) under one side of the clamp and the Black Traveler that goes to box 2 under the other side of the clamp. Two wires- one terminal. Below that terminal, on the bottom right, I have the Red Traveler that goes to box 2 under the clamp of a silver screw (this is the YL/RD terminal). On the bottom left, on the red screw (RD terminal), I have the black load (goes to my lights). For the final terminal, on the top left (the WH terminal), I had to use a wire nut to clamp together the White/ Neutral line (from the power) with the White/ Neutral Traveler that goes to Box 2 AND a pigtail (a short piece of wire). The pigtail is then connected under one side of the WH clamp and the White/Neutral Load (goes to lights) is under the other side of the WH clamp. Two wires- one terminal. One agent told me I could pigtail all 4 wires together, but it was easier to just connect 2 wires to the terminal.6. The other box was easy peasy, once I had Box 1 straightened out. The Black Traveler goes to top right BK terminal, the Red Traveler to the bottom right YL/RD terminal, and the White/ Neutral goes to the top left WH terminal.

Once set up, it's a straight forward dimming module. Yes you can adjust the dimming speed on homeseer extra extra settings section

I purchased this dimmer to control the LED lights (a Lowes-specific frosted-glass version of the  GE Reveal 60W LED bulbs with candelabra base ) in a ceiling fan I have that is controlled with a  GE Enbrighten Z-Wave Plus Switch . I wanted this switch to look and feel different than the GE switch to make it easy to locate, even in the dark. I think the Leviton and GE models look great next to each other (see picture), and I really like how configurable this Leviton dimmer was. Through the paddle alone, you can configure the maximum/minimum brightness, the behavior of the built-in LED status lights, the dimming delays, and much more. The only thing that I personally don't like about this switch is how soft the touch is; it just doesn't feel sturdy to me. However, I think others might actually like how light of a touch is necessary to make the switch work.I was easily able to pair this switch with my Wink Z-Wave hub. It operates my GE bulbs without any noticeable hum. For some reason, I think the LED bulbs I'm using it with don't quite reach maximum brightness, but I can't tell for sure, and I'm happy with the amount of light in the room.

I have one other Leviton device and it is at the far end of the house. It disconnects and has to be reconnected to my Wink hub periodically. Last week it disconnected again. Being house-bound due to the Corona Virus, I decided to spend some time and try to fix this problem once and for all.I went to Amazon and bought this and installed it at about a halfway point between my hub and the older installed Leviton switch, so that the Z-wave at the far end of the house could make a better link to my hub with this as a 'bridge' device.In wiring it, the Red terminal has to go to the load - I incorrectly connected the load to the white terminal at first, and then found my error and reconnected it properly. You need a Neutral wire in the box connected to the 'White' terminal to use the switch. (Hint: You can go against code and use the ground wire as a neutral if the box does not have a neutral, if the switch is not already on a ground fault, as the ground wire is exactly the same polarity as a neutral wire).The difficult thing for me was linking it the new Leviton switch to my WINK hub. You have to put the hub in the linking mode, which is not hard to do with the app on my Android phone. You then have to depress the Leviton switch (either turning it 'On' or 'Off') until the solid green light at the base of the switch turns on. Once that occurs, you depress the Leviton switch using the top of the switch (the 'On' portion) for seven seconds or until the solid green light starts to flash. I did this repeatedly with no success - and that was my fault.There is one more step - and that is what I missed at first. Once the green light is flashing, you have to depress the switch one more time in order to initiate the pairing sequence. After about an hour of false starts, I re-read the instructions and found that I had missed this last step. Once I discovered this (it was in the instructions provided by Leviton, but I missed it), the pairing happened in a few seconds. Whew. I followed the prompt and named the new switch for the light that it controlled.Then I went to the WINK app on the phone and selected Z-wave Network Rediscovery to 'remap' the Z-wave signal. Everything worked great. Finally I went to my Amazon Alexa, and verbally asked it to discover new devices. It found the new switch in about 30 seconds, and from that point on I could control the switch from Alexa.Finally I went to the original problem Leviton switch at the far end of the house. After putting the WINK hub in the pairing mode, I first disconnected that switch from the WINK hub. I then went through the Leviton 'Reset' process (which consisted of putting the switch in the flashing mode and pressing the top of the switch several times). I then went to the WINK app and disconnected that switch from my WINK hub.Once that was done, I reconnected that Leviton switch to the WINK hub using the same sequence. I used to connect the new switch. I named my original switch by a new name just to be certain that Alexa would not be confused. I am not sure if I needed to do that or not, but I did and it worked great. I then used the Zwave Network Rediscovery option on the WINK app to make sure that the original switch was using the optimum path for its signal (there is no way to confirm that it is using the optimum path - I just hoped it would do so). Finally I went back to the Alexa App and 'discovered' the renamed switch. Now everything works great.In summary, the Leviton works fine, but it difficult to link due in part to the Z-Wave technology.I found the Moes brand switches (they do not use Z-Wave) to be less expensive and far superior if connecting to a 3-way circuit (you only need to replace one of the 3-way switches with the Moes brand - incredibly clever technology by the switch designer - and although Moes had some bad reviews on Amazon, Moes has worked reliably for me for over a year wherever I installed it, and installed three of them). But once you have started with a Z-wave, you have to use other Z-wave devices to set up a decent network.Hope this info is helpful to others who have selected Z-Wave.

Connecting to Z Wave was easy and these are simple to use!

Easy to install and join to a local hubonce it’s joined to the local pub it’s immediately picked up by Amazon AlexaThe on off button is tactile and responsivevery reliable and quick when issuing commandshighly recommend it

LO PUDE INSTALAR RAPIDO

This Leviton DZ15S-1BZ Z-Wave on/off wall switch - in my experience - is a reliable product that works exactly as designed. Over the past 3 years I have installed over a dozen of these switches (most with the companion DD0SR-DLZ remote switch) and all continue to work without problems (*).Installing these switches in a 3-way setup (with the companion switch) may require a deductive process to (a) figure out how the original 3-way switches were wired to each other, (b) which outlet box carries the hot and neutral lines from the circuit breaker box, and (c) which outlet box has the cabling to the load. I suspect several of the posted "does not work" reviews are the consequence of the installer not figuring out how to correctly wire this switch, which also includes figuring out how to provide this switch with the required neutral connection.There is a very audible "click" when this switch is turned on and off either directly or by the companion remote switch. This "click" comes from the relay inside the switch, and not the switch paddle. Just be aware this is normal for this switch, and some reviewers have found this to be annoying.(*) If you have purchased this switch after 2019 you will likely receive one with the latest version 1.20 firmware. Switches with firmware versions prior to 1.20 exhibit unpredictable behaviour (as pointed out in some of the earlier reviews posted here) such episodically losing communication with the Z-Wave hub. It is not possible to determine from external inspection which firmware version is installed on the switch - this can only be determined by looking at the detailed device status display provided for some Z-Wave hubs. For users of the SmartThings hub, you need to use the SmartThings web browser IDE interface - this status cannot be seen using the mobile app. If your switch is demonstrating these problems, or if you know your switch has a firmware version prior to 1.20, call Leviton technical support - they will provide (free of charge) a USB Z-Wave stick and the firmware update software required to fix this problem. On switches with firmware version 1.20 (which is on all Leviton Z-Wave switches now being shipped) this switch will work very reliably on a Z-Wave network.

Muy buen interruptor. Me gusto mucho sobre todo la posibilidad de cambiarlo de apagador cuando quieras y en donde necesites. Mucho mejor que tener un dimmer. Pense en comprar el enchufe de pared pero no me arrepiento en absoluto de este ya que lo puedo cambiar sin ningun ajuste solo lo desconecto y lo conecto en el nuevo enchufe y sigue funcionando. Queria comprar otro pero el precio subio al doble. Se enlaza muy facil al SmartthingsActualización. Con la app de Smartthings en Alexa lo puedes activar o desactivar con ordenes verbales

I've bought 3 of these, and I like them very much. They join effortlessly to the Ring alarm system and allows me to control them via the Ring app, or use in an Alexa routine. The manual control is also good. The user guide is very well written and clear, explaining how to program the minimum dim level, LED vs CFL vs Incandescent setting, dimmer timeout, etc. After reading way too many terribly written/translated guides, this one is a pleasure. Highly recommended.