POR-15 Rust Preventive Coating, Stop Rust and Corrosion Permanently, Anti-rust, Non-porous Protective Barrier, 16 Fluid Ounces, Gloss Black

I just got a used 48" mower deck for a 'vintage' Wheel Horse lawn tractor circa 1991 - it was in amazing condition except for (obviously) the blade compartment. I decided it was worth the work - it really wasn't that bad except for surface scaly rust and attached grass and the topside looked like new with original paint/belts. This isn't just for car restoration.I found POR-15 with great reviews on Amazon and decided to also get the rust remover/stabilizer. I first bought an inexpensive angle grinder from Harbor Freight (7amp minimum recommended by me) with requisite wire brushes. Three passes and most of the red flaky rust was gone and down to 'black oxide'. About half had shallow pitting but most of the metal thickness was intact. I then applied the metal prep as directed and it turned remaining rust in pits/etc. to a grey-white along with non-rusted areas. You could wipe some of this off on the surface after it dried and I decided to wipe down the entire area to smooth things out.Then came the Gloss Black rust preventive paint - I didn't use any other primer. Two coats with a brush only (larger projects need roller) and I'm amazed - it did indeed dry to a rock-hard finish and brushed on easily - including the rusted caps on the spindle shafts below the blades - the more I began using the more places I found to use it on. The finish really looked great.Now my experience tips many stated elsewhere. MUST have well-ventilated area - like outside for me on a sunny day. If you get it on you it's not coming off until nature dictates so you have to be careful and prepared. There's plenty of time before it sets up so there's no rush. I didn't feel any need to wear a body suit - perhaps on larger projects as others suggest or if you're really sloppy.My two pearls of wisdom having pre-read the other comments about not getting it on the lip of the can and being impossible to open (I can tell this would be correct). I bought a pack of 30ml plastic syringes (from China) thru eBay that are just like medical syringes - you can get larger ones if you need more. Open the can (carefully sitting on flat surface) and put the syringe vertically in the center of the liquid away from the edges and draw up however much you need - it's fairly viscous and requires some effort in pulling and DON'T pull it out - I could do it with thumb and index fingers holding the syringe and other fingers pulling it up. In your other hand hold a paper towel - once the stuff is pulled up lift it above the top of the liquid, let it drip a couple of times, and then bring the paper towel under it to catch any loose drops. This prevented any from getting into the lid groove of the can. I then squirted it into a standard paint roller-type pan with throw-away inserts and dipped brush into (or roller if you choose) and paint away. I also dumped the extra back into the can when finished very carefully. It was ridiculously easy and the can sealed like new and re-opened like new. My arms and fingers weren't too black when done :-) The syringe worked for repeated adding into the roller pan (about 4-5 times).Throw away the brush (or roller), the syringe, the pan insert, and anything else disposable because they'll be rock hard and unuseable again. I thank others for posting comments about this product - it's really fabulous and I can't imagine ever having to revisit this deck for decades. It's that good with a hard as a rock finish. I also found myself touching up a rusty metal rail on our patio and other things and intend to use it a lot more than I anticipated. For those small time users like me asking 'how much do I need' the answer is less than you'd think. This entire deck project used less than 1/4 of the quart (most is left) with two coats. This is why you need to preserve the can lid function - most is still there for other projects and I can think of plenty.Hope this helps - highly recommended!!!

Absolutely the best stuff on the market have been using this on everything with great results

Applied this to rusted areas on my truck. Next day it was dry and appears to have covered the rust completely. If it does everything they claim it will be worth the time,effort,and money. Only time will tell the true story on this product. FYI WEAR GLOVES this stuff takes a while to get off of your skin.

This paint is solid. When surface is prepared correctly. I purchased the quart cleaning kit for prep after I put the parts through a parts washer. I painted the exterior of a metal gas tank and only prepped by wire wheeling off loose rust followed by Marine Clean then Metal Prep. Seems to be holding on very well, we'll see how it does once it has been in the car for a while.If you're looking to seal up simple surface rust this is great stuff and creates a non-porous, hard surface. It is nice that you can paint over prepped bare metal or rusted surfaces.As other have said, it will stay on anything you get it on once it dries. Generally takes about a week for it to wear off your skin, so gloves are a must. No matter how careful you plan on being.I used the cheap foam brushes from Walmart for application. Goes on nice and smooth and since they're only 50 cents I just buy a handful and use them as needed.Also very important, if you don't plan to use the whole can in one go, pour what you need into a separate container as contaminants can prevent the paint from working properly (namely water or sweat). And clean the area where the lid seats very well before closing it or it will seal shut in a way that requires damaging the can to open it again. I've thus far been very happy with this product and will continue to use it.

A little goes a long ways! Works great!

So, I did the research. I made sure to look into one year or more followups as well. And when applied correctly, it does it's job as prescribed.Everyone on YouTube seems to love this stuff. (Although very few are properly prepping for it) I admit, I'm liking it as well. It did exactly what it says it will do. But I have a huge complaint to issue. MAKE THE CAN STRONGER. The can is made out of some kind of awful thin metal and I struggled for ten minutes trying to pry it open without covering myself in the product. It's bad enough the bottom of my can was dented when I got it. But even an attempt to open it was bending up the lip on the lid. I don't know why it has four little metal clips holding the lid to the can. They literally do nothing from what I see. They just popped right off with slight pressure.POR15 is a great product and I do recommend it. But at $35-ish dollars a can, I expect a better can. $5 cans of Rustoleum at Walmart are built better.UPDATEPrevious speaking of Rustoleum, I have switched to their products. I correctly prepared my firewall and frame and used the POR-15. In less than a month, the frame started turning from a semigloss black look to completely flat. I recoated the firewall in a semigloss Rustoleum and it has kept its sheen for months.Moral of the story, there's a difference in an "influencer" that tries to get you to do things and a "builder". That wants to truthfully represent products.

I placed this on my underside of my lawn tractor cutting deck. Still no rust, or peeling. 15 years ago. Now using it on the car port bottom of my car port. Just make sure you follow the directions. Pricie but we'll worth it.

If you have rust and want to get rid of it, this is the best product around! Very little prep required before using this product. It will turn your rust back into solid material and no time flat! Used with the pros do that’s what I say about this product! It’s absolutely amazing.