Queen/Full/Full-XL Foam Mattress Vacuum Bag for Moving, Vacuum Seal Mattress Bag with Straps

This bag works quite well, as long as you have the right vacuum for it! I have purchased and used this exact product twice so far, because I end up puncturing it every time I use it (more on this later). The first time I used it, I tried using my regular household vacuum cleaner (Miele canister vac). It worked a little bit, but the vacuum quickly overheated and shut off. Most household vacuums aren't meant to operate at maximum suction without a lot of air flowing through them (because they rely on the incoming air to cool the motor). The second time I used this bag, I used a large shop-vac (Rigid brand vacuum). This worked a LOT better and didn't suffer any overheating issues. If you want an even better vacuum, I have some more info later on. For most people, using a standard shop-vac will do the job nicely.Once you have pulled the vacuum, fold the mattress over and strap it up. Having a second person to help here is very useful -- one person sitting on the mattress to keep it folded while another person straps it worked very well. I used the included straps to hold it in half, then used some ratcheting straps to tighten it up even further. Note that if you use ratchet straps, put a piece of cardboard or something like that between the metal ratchet body and the plastic bag to keep from puncturing the plastic.The attached image is of a Purple 3 mattress under full compression. I think the compression is just as good as the factory does, but I didn't have enough leverage to actually "roll" up the mattress and could only fold it in half. Its still plenty small enough to fit in the back of a normal station wagon/hatch/SUV.Once your mattress is vacuumed and folded, you really should add some extra protection. You can wrap the mattress in mover's plastic wrap, or find some other heavy duty plastic/tarp to wrap this in. The vacuum bag punctures VERY easily. This happened BOTH times I tried moving with this. It's not the end of the world, as long as your straps are tight -- the straps will keep the mattress MOSTLY contained even if the vacuum is lost, but it will be a LOT more difficult to move around without the vacuum intact. Note that I punctured this even though I was trying to be very careful. I was moving my mattress with a helper down a short walkway between my door and the car. The mattress was very heavy, so we stopped once to put the mattress down and take a quick break. The bag touched a grain of sand on my walkway (yes, just a grain of sand), and this caused a minute puncture. It was enough that I could hear it leaking, but I couldn't stop the leak with duct tape or anything like that because of all the creases in the plastic. Within 2 hrs, the mattress bag vacuum was completely lost.So if you want the ultimate vacuum, I had good results using a four-stage diaphragm pump with a shop-vac as a roughing vacuum. Most people won't have access to this equipment, and probably won't need this level of vacuum to be honest. My shop-vac took the vacuum down to about 650 torr. I was able to attach a diaphragm pump using an NW25 fitting. If you remove and use just the O ring from an NW25 centering ring, it will fit over the inlet port nicely and creates a good seal once a vacuum is established (see photo for more info). I took it down to 40 torr and said "good enough" there. The majority of the compression had already happened with the shop-vac -- the difference between 650 and 40 torr was noticeable, but not enormous.

Worked like a charm. Used for moving across country. In shocked movers do not use these, but why would they... right!! These saved so much room in the moving truck. We used these on the mattresses, the kids nugget couches, couch cushions. Talk about saving space I can't say enough about the space saving this was. Not only did it survive a 3k move from Texas to the Midwest but also as fluctuations of temperatures. It also survived 3 months in a storage locker and may I once again say the space it saved us. Not only that but it protected whatever items were in the bag. We used vacuum to seal and multiple bodies to help stand and lay on the mattress to such out as much air as we could in the king mattress. A 14" mattress went down to 4/5 inches. I do recommend removing any waterproof mattress covers as this impeded getting the air out of the mattress. Sheets were no problems. So if you're hiring a mover may I suggest getting these and saving yourself the extra money by saving space in your truck. They make you buy mattress covers, why not this one. We did not roll up and use the straps as we preferred the nice flat mattress as a cushion along furniture

Worked great to shrink down a 13 inch queen PE mattress so it could fit in a hatchback. It's basically a giant Ziploc bag with a one way valve to suck out the air with a vacuum cleaner. I learned a few things along the way that will help next time:- Watch a few YouTube videos (duh) to see how others have done it. The instructions are correct but not complete.- Check the seal with your hands after you zip the bag shut. The zipper needed to be pressed shut by hand, but once I did that, it held great.- The bag is thick enough, but is vulnerable to puncturing. I accidentally pressed a rounded plastic part against it and made a small hole that was easily repaired with duct tape.- When rolling/folding your mattress, roll towards the zipper top (start with the zipper the farthest away from you, not on the left or right side). If you roll it with the zipper on the side, it is likely to come undone as you roll it up because it doesn't hold great if you bend it.- When sealing it, stand on the mattress in sock feet to press out the air. Start far away from the valve and work your way in. Then repeat.- Give your vacuum a break frequently. I ran my shop vac for about 5 minutes then let it cool for at least 15 minutes. I had to do that 3 or 4 times. It gets hot pretty quick and you don't want to overheat or overwork your vacuum. It's way harder on your vacuum cleaner than regular vacuuming.