Leviton IPP15-1LA Decora Manual-ON Occupancy Sensor, Single Pole, 3-Way or More Applications, 180-Degree Field of View, Almond

I rewired my house, and I put this (and IPPOR-1LW s) in the living room and kitchen and I'd totally do it again, but this switch isn't for everyone:1) This switch is fairly big and takes up a lot of room inside the box. If you house was build by the lowest bidder your boxes may not be deep enough to hold this thing, (but you'll have the same problem with most PIR sensors.)2) If you aren't looking for the 3 way features of this switch and you are just replacing your existing light switch with this, I'd recommend something else, (something like the ODS15 probably): this switch requires that you have neutral wire run to you switch location, where as there are there are good occupancy switches that only require you have ground (and hot obviously) to the switch location. If your house meets 2011 code then you either have neutral at your switch location or it is easily fish-able, and that isn't a problem.3) If you are replacing your existing 3 way switches with these keep in mind that they are wired different than a regular 3-way switch, and your wires might not be run in ways that are adaptable.Bottom line: you should probably go to Leviton's website and download the manual before you buy this.Of course if you are running new wires anyways those aren't a problem, but don't just rough in like you normally would for a light switch, pay attention to the manual. I'll summarize the easiest way to rough this in though: you need 12-2 (with ground) run from the panel to this switch and a 12-2 run from this switch to the light fixture and then 12-3 run from this switch to every IPPOR, (although those can be daisy chained.) That is a lot of wire for one box, you probably have a box fill violation there. (If your lighting circuits are 15 amp, your life will be slightly easier but not by a lot.) I ended up putting a 2 gang box in the attic to handle the wirenuts, and then just running the conductors I needed down to the to the switch box; you'll have 5 conductors in there: black (hot), white (neutral), green (ground), yellow-red (threeway), and red (to fixture.) If you don't want to use 10-4 for that (because you'll have to derate it,) run two 12-2s and use electrical tape to mark them appropriately.(Wait around for the electrical inspector to inspect all that.)Now to look at the actual switch:Physically I was impressed with the switch itself, all the screws are colored and recessed (you won't short it out on a metal box, but it makes it a little harder to wire.) Of course, screwing 5 12-gauge wires onto something this size and then trying to squish it into a single gang box is a little tricky.Operationally:a) There is a green LED on the switch when the light is turned off. It is nice on the switches, (makes it easier to find them in the dark,) but since I also did some other rewiring at the same time as I installed this switch, I've noticed I've picked up quite a green LEDs around the house, (smoke detectors and GFCIs,) and that seems silly.b) The switch makes an audible click when you turn it on, even if what you physically touched was a IPPOR. Not a problem, but the first time you do it, you might be surprised.c) It is possible to double tap the switch, so that lights come on and then go out immediately. It has only happened once and was probably user error, but...

Did not function as described and would not turn the light on, apparently this will not function with LED bulbs which I purchased it for. after much research on the internet (by Leviton). I purchased a cooper wiring device from Lowes for 1/4 the price and it works just great. Leviton has lost my vote on their products. They used to be top notch.

I purchased these for a bathroom & hallway in which my 'tween boys constantly leave the lights on. I like the fact that it cannot be left on indefinitely without occasional motion and it has to be turned on each time. It also acts as a timer in the bathroom -- I told my son who likes long showers, when the lights go out, his shower time is up. Very nice. For the hallway, which has 2 switches in 3-way, I had to buy another Leviton switch (the VZ0SR) to get it to work, but that wasn't a big deal. These are perfect if you want manual control each time vs. auto on, which these do not do. Leviton & Cooper both make cheaper versions for automatic-on functionality. Of course, their cheaper versions do not let you use CFLs, which have electronic ballasts, so you get what you pay for. I am running mostly CFLs with these two and they work perfectly. That is definitely a plus that pays you back for the extra $$ you will pay for these.

I use this for the light in the 6'x4' powder room. As i am still in the room the light went off, i had to wave my arm to reactivate it. it should not be lke this .

Read my review on the Maxxima 500 Watt Occupancy Sensor Switch. The Leviton sensor is installed and does work but needed allot of adjustments to make it turn off. The single most problem and I am still not sure if I will remove it is the following:I am using this in my garage. I tend to forget to turn off the light leaving it on all night. Now maybe the sensor is just so sensitive (my electrician has been truing to adjust it) but I have duck to dawn lighting outside my garage on either side of the door. PLUS an American flag located directly under the exterior light. I have a feeling that with the exterior lights on (low wattage) and the flag waving in the evening breeze is causing the motion sensor to NOT turn off the light it is connected to.I will update this review as I have removed the flag due to the storms we have been having, and see if this is indeed the issue causing the motion sensor to not kick off. That is probably the case but the windows on the garage door are not that large and of course are at the top Maybe this does make the difference, Will keep all posted if this solves the problem. But i would not recommend purchasing this, buy the MAXXIMA 500 Watt Electrical Occupancy Sensor Switch sold on Amazon.