TAILONZ PNEUMATIC 1/4 Inch NPT AC110V Brass Electric Solenoid Valve 2W025-08 Normally Closed Water, Air, Diesel

Good buy. I am using this solenoid an an automatic shut-off on the "feed-in" side (pre-filter) on a whole house RO system. It's taking 80 PSI from our water well pump just fine, comes on and off just as it should to feed the RO system, and I am not experiencing any excessive heating, none at all, at least at this early stage (3 days). In fact, it's barely warm in 60° temps, although that may change with summer. I imagine all of them get warm, I would be shocked to find out otherwise. Wiring was simple: Just use an old cord or buy a short exterior grade cord on Amazon, and cut the female side off -attaching the wires to the solenoid wires with wire nuts, plug in the male side to whatever operating unit/or float you are relying on, and you're done. I'll update if any problems develop.

This item works well. I'm still testing to see if it will flow enough diesel fuel thru valve or I my may need to up size valve from 3/8 to 1/2" to get a higher flow rate thru valve.

Tied this into my outside compressor wiring and worked like a charm. My AC mister is supplied water only when my AC turns on and denied water flow when the AC cycles off. Much better than the flapper styled valve systems that use your compressor cooling fans air flow to open the water valve. Those are cheap and leaky and have been accused of causing premature fan failures due to water leaking onto the fan motor constantly. Just be sure you understand your wiring diagram to be sure you are splicing into the proper voltage wiring. I didn't have to use any type of voltage regulator as my system had matching voltages to this valves variable inputs.

I bought this for an Automatic Aircon Water Mist System I made. I mounted this solenoid below the control box (keeping water lines away from electrics) using M5 - 0.8mm screws (bought separately) and powered it from the main (240 VAC) Contactor. it worked okay for about 5 days, but ran so hot I couldn't touch the valve when operating. Also, had a drip coming from the lower edge of coil. After 5 days, it stopped working and the valve stayed cold. Burned out the coil, I think. I ordered a 24-volt version, but discovered on arrival that it draws 2.5 Amps. My HVAC 24 volt control transformer already powers the Thermostat, Circulation Fan contactor, and either the Furnace or the Aircon contactor, so is already loaded near capacity and is not rated for the extra 2.5 amps (40 watts) this 24-volt solenoid draws, So I finally bit the bullet and bought a self-closing 24-volt Motor-driven ball valve. It's slow, taking 3 seconds to open, but that doesn't matter for an Aircon water mister. What really matters is that it only draws 0.2 amps from the 24 Volt system, and that for only a few seconds. That's just 5 watts, so no heating up. These Solenoid valves are rated for "Continuous Use", and are rated for water, but are NOT waterproof. They heat up pretty fast, so I can't recommend them for extended operation or use in a very wet environment. These are great for any system that you want fast - like 1/5 of a second - operation, but I wouldn't run them contiuously for hours at a time, like I needed to: Aircon runs a lot on these hot Georgia summer days. Anyway, these Solenoid Valves are built pretty heavy and would be a great solution for rmany purposes. Just didn't work out for mine.

installed them into a test fixture to control air and water, no problems. I like the fact you can hear them open

Haven't used it yet but appears to be good quality, initial testing shows the solenoid works.

I see a lot of people have had issues with these solenoids getting too hot. A solenoid of this type should never be turned on for prolonged periods of time. If you want to apply power and have it open then you want a normally closed model. If you want it to close when power is applied then you want a normally open model. If your duty cycle requires prolonged coil activation then you would need a different type of solenoid all together. Quite simply, any kind of coil, especially one that induces a magnetic field, will create a great deal of heat. It’s difficult than the induced flux of a transformer but as we all know, transformers get pretty hot too. I hope this helped someone.

Wow, this is a new low for cheap Chinese crap on Amazon. Dangerously malfunctioning product. When I connected it to 110vac, there was a burning smell. When I touched it, I got a nasty shock. I tried connecting it to 24vdc and it seemed to function intermittently; my suspicion is that it was a 24vdc coil, mis-labeled as taking 110vac.