GSI CreosMr. Procon Boy WA Platinum Airbrush with Air Up System 0.3mm, Mr. Hobby

Final Review:I've written two prior reviews below and everything stated in the previous reviews is fact by me. Just to finish this up I am completely satisfied with this airbrush. I've since painted 3 MG Gundam Model kits mostly using Tamiya Acrylics in various colors and Tamiya Clear Acrylics. I love to use Alclad Alclad Laquer's paints. I especially love their Gloss Black Primer in combination with their Chrome paint top coat with their Aqua Clear Gloss. Most noticable for me coming from my previous experience either Masters Airbrushes is how well this brush atomized the paints and how much less thinner I have to use to get the paints to flow to my liking. In my Masters Airbrush I'd have to take the cap off when I could tell I'm coming to the very last drop because it would blast a huge load over whatever part I was painting ruining the piece. This isn't from me not know how to properly thin my paints and it certainly wasn't due to any water in my line since I always run with a double water trap (tip: buy an inline water trap that attaches to the hose that then connects to the airbrush. It's usually like $9 and I have never had to buy a new one yet. Saves a lot of headache and also gives you piece of mind if you're painting with humidity.) The issue was just the Masters Airbrush it self. I'm not at all saying that their brushes aren't good. I'm just saying they aren't great but their airbrushes got me into this hobby and have worked for all of my previous projects as an amateur airbrush painter. If you have the money this airbrush is certainly worth the money. If you're new to this hobby and aren't sure you want to spend +$130 on an airbrush alone then I suggest the Masters Airbrush bundle. I believe I got mine with the Airbrush, air compressors, the hose, and some very crappy free paint for $130 two years ago from the date of this review. In hindsight, if I could do it all over again; I'd buy this airbrush and Masters Airbrush Air Compressor. Probably be about $70 but it very inexpensive, not terribly loud, and I haven't had any issues other than I added that extra water trap as previous stated because water would still get in my line when the humidity was high or just from using it for hours. Air compressors can get ridiculously expensive and I currently don't understand what I'm missing out on with the air compressors that are +$200. Until I meet someone who has one of those kinds and see if it is at all worth that amount of money the Masters Airbrusg air compessor has worked perfectly fine with this brush. The air hose it came with also works with this brush as well. Final word, if you don't read my previous reviews below; the airhose this brush comes with is complete crap. I'm pretty sure it's made for Creos's C02 cans. Don't waste your money on those cans. Buy a compressor and have the ability to set a proper PSI rather than fiddling with thr airup system that's built within this brush.Second Review:I'm not changing the 5 star rating but I will say it's for the airbrush only. Wanted to mention though that the air hose that comes with it is very very generic. It's also extremely short. Pretty sure it's made for one of those airbrush 02 cans since it comes with parts to adapt the airbrush for that purpose. So if you don't have a compressor and hose already before you purchase, be sure to buy one. I believe it's a 1/8". I had purchased a Masters Airbrush kit before I purchased this and the house fit perfectly on this airbrush.First Review:I love building Gunpla's. I also love airbrushing Gunpla's. A quick google search for best Gunpla airbrushes and you won't see this on the top 5 list. You'll see Iwata, Harder&Steinbeck, Badger, and a few others namely Masters. Like most people diping their feet into this hobby, I went the cheap route to start. I have probably 5 different ones since they are super inexpensive but my work horse has been the Masters G23. I got extra needle sizes but I've always just used the 0.03mm needle. Creos is the maker of top of the line paints and thinners Mr. Color/Mr. Hobby. I usually use Tamiya paints since it's less expensive but I always always always use Mr. Color Leveling Thinner to thin my paints. That stuff is a game changer and makes painting when you're new to this much much easier. Anyhow, I decided to buy this over the coveted Iwata HP-CS. Admittedly, I have never used anything beyond Masters airbrushed but on paper this was a little bit less expensive and had more features. So I bought this after reading review after review. After I purchased this though I watched a YouTube video of it from a fairly popular airbrush guy and my heart sunk when he stated that this can't perform a backwash. Immediately, I went on here and asked about it and immediately people said yes it can! The YouTube's reasoning was because of the way they crown for the nozzle is shaped, it doesn't allow your finger (this is how a back wash is performed on regular airbrushes) to cover the tip to create an air tight seal to do it. However, he was wrong! You literally unscrew the nozzle (the part right after the crown) and it does it! When I first tried it I was like how tf does this actually work?! When you loosen it it seals itself however you'll probably be surprised like I was that there's air still flowing out the front at what ever psi you're spraying however no paint is going thru and the paint cup is doing a backwash! Backwash is extremely important not only for cleaning but for mixing your paints. Very cool feature with this airbrush and you don't get paint on your fingers while doing it. The air up system on the front is new for me. You could set your compressor for 60psi if you wanted to and control your air pressure with that. The paint flow limiter in the back is something you'll see with top of the line expensive airbrushes unless you buy Masters brand. I'm not knocking Masters brand at all. They really opened the door for me in this fun hobby and are all around a great value with top of the line features for cheap. Last two things. The button is much softer and it glides a lot easier. I'm use to painting all day and the next day regreting doing so because I have a tendency to press down too hard and hyper extend my pointer finger in the process without knowing. My only complaint which isn't much of a complaint is that I believe you need a special type of holder for this because of the air up system in the front. It won't fit in my holder/paint dump jar. 5/5 stars so far. I'm one to update reviews in the future.

If you're unsure how an airbrush can be different, or better, because you can get by with your included kit airbrush... you're not alone! I too wondered what could possibly be different enough to warrant spending $100 on an airbrush, let alone $150 for the much recommended Iwata Eclipse. The reviews for $100+ airbrushes all mention things that don't sound very integral to the experience, but if you're doing figure/miniature/gunpla painting, they absolutely are. I feel that learning on a bad airbrush helped me get over my fears, but it taught me to be afraid of doing detailed work. I haven't used more expensive brushes than this, and my skill level isn't at a place to appreciate the differences to a $400 brush, but I recommend this airbrush to all beginners/intermediates. This air brush is that line where the tool will no longer hold you back; it's all on you from here on out.What makes this air brush different than a Master or generic kit brush?1. The trigger has a smooth action. This didn't seem all that important because, again, I got used to my airbrush. I figured a little bit different wasn't a huge deal. I was wrong. A smooth action and no slightly grainy texture helps prevent you from making splatter mistakes. Letting go of the trigger too abruptly causes splatter when the needle smacks into the nozzle. That doesn't happen with this brush because the margin for error is much higher since it has a great spring and smooth pull.2. The modulation on the paint spray is much greater. What I mean is, you have more degrees of spraying paint when pulling back than with the other brush. I know what you're thinking: "I'm fine". But it's a game changer. Instead of your airbrush basically having 3 settings: Dry "I'm testing it out" Spray, "For-real this time Spray", and "Torrential Downpour", it feels like you now have way more freedom. It actually took me some time to get used to it because now I could actually be precise and move in close with the brush to get primer in small nooks.3. The cap doesn't get clogged because the needle is higher quality. I had to buy a new needle for my kit brush ($12 for a set of 3) because it arrived SLIGHTLY bent. My spray was leaning upwards which meant the cap kept getting clogged. This brush's cap isn't circular and even if you mess up and get paint in it, it won't pool it up in front of your needle.4. The cup is easier to clean. It's actually well finished all throughout. I'll guess your kit brush looks chrome all through but has slight ridges towards the bottom. Or maybe it's super cheap and looks like unfinished brass towards the end. That's because it's machined cheaply. A fully finished and well made cup equates to a huge time saver. Changing colors is now no longer a 3-4 minute activity but 30-40 seconds. Full clean only at the end of the session.5. Lack of nozzle leaks means it atomizes paint like a champ. Let's be straight, my cheap brush with a decent compressor can atomize paint. However, because it leaks air near the nozzle (check by putting soapy water near the nozzle cap and needle cap) it means I can expect it to spit every so often. Not to mention additional clean up and o-ring damage. My old airbrush spit tiny, tiny dots of paint once in awhile. Speckles ruin the finish. If you want to do any sort of slight detail work like pre-shading you probably gave up already. I didn't realize this was a solvable problem. I've primed over 40 pieces today and not a single sputter or speck. What fresh hell have I been putting myself through?If you're looking to stop fixing your models and get to actually painting them, I suggest you start here. Just comparing the specs with the Iwata Eclipse HP-CS this air brush blows it out of the water for $50 less. Nozzle/Needle replacement ready, perfect needle size for all the hobbies I listed above, and you get a mac valve! Just make sure you invest in a real compressor with tank first (The standard $79-89 kit compressors are more than fine).

Works well for a beginner, easy to use, and is sturdy.

I haven't had a chance to really use this brush long but I did spray with it and it did a great job. I have a Creos PS-770 that has a much smaller needle and it's awesome for detail work but I wanted something a little more middle of the road and just easy to spray with. Based on the build quality of the 770 I decided to give this a try. For approx $80 this thing is a phenomenal buy. I'm not a pro so I can't compare this to dozens of brushes. I just don't have that experience level but using this was easy and it sprayed really well right out of the box. I'm really looking forward to using it on the several model aircraft I was gifted last Christmas. I took the nozzle cap off and it sprayed a nice clean line a little less than 1mm wide. I would really recommend this as a great first airbrush or a general all-around tool for anyone. I plan to use this to lay down a couple of coats over wider surfaces or for priming and using the 770 for fine details.

All Mr.Hobby Creos airbrushes are awesome and very good fine lines and wide spraying and very good trigger response and atomization and very well made. And the prices are great. One of the best airbrushes to have.