The Essential Cuisines of Mexico: A Cookbook

`The Essential Cuisines of Mexico' is Diana Kennedy's Mexican answer to Julia Child's `Mastering the Art of French Cooking'. It has a similar style and quality and, like Child's encounter with French cooking, it came about as a result of her marriage to a husband who was posted to Mexico by his newspaper, `The New York Times' as their Caribbean / Mexican correspondent. This, plus a little help from New York Times colleague and friend, Craig Claiborne lead Ms. Kennedy to start teaching Mexican cooking and prompting her to write a book on the subject.There are two big differences between this book and Ms. Child's `magnum opus'. The first is that this volume is an amalgam of three earlier books, while `...French Cooking' was a distillation from a manuscript at least twice the size of the final published volume. The second major difference is that while Ms. Child is documenting `cuisine bourgeois', Ms. Kennedy is looking at Mexico's `cuisine provincial'. This is highlighted by the fact that the geographical home of all recipes is cited, and the geographic specifics are given for all the major ingredients cited in the appendix.The three earlier books being combined here are `The Cuisines of Mexico', `The Tortilla Book', and `Mexican Regional Cooking'. The author also states that some new material has been added to the recipes from these three books. To my eye, the integration of the three volumes is seamless. The author and her editors have not simply pasted the three volumes together, they have merged all the material to create a single work easily superior to the original three.By the time this book was published, it should be evident to the English speaking world at large that Ms. Kennedy has some serious competition from Chicagoan, Rick Bayless in the world of Mexican culinary authorities. Just as Ms. Kennedy presents recipes very similar to fellow amateur Julia Child and fellow `culinary archeologist' Paula Wolfert, chef Bayless does a much more analytical approach to Mexican cuisine, deconstructing dishes into their component parts in `Rich Bayless' Mexican Kitchen' and giving us multiple versions of important dishes in `Mexico One Plate at a Time'.In spite of these differences, Ms. Kennedy and Mr. Bayless agree on virtually everything important when they address the same subjects. The most important point on which they agree is the central place of Oaxaca as, to coin a phrase, the Provence of Mexican cuisine. On which author to prefer, if you are a fan of Mexican dishes, buy both authors, bypassing the earlier books which were folded into the current volume and also bypassing Mr. Bayless' `Salsas That Cook' as there is some overlap with `Rick Bayless's (sic) Mexican Kitchen'. If you are a culinary professional, Mr. Bayless may be just a bit more useful. If you simply want lots of good recipes, go with Ms. Kennedy. Also, Ms. Kennedy probably has the edge when it comes to giving recipes for Mexican baking, as that is one of her special interests. And, if that is where your strongest interest lies, go for her latest book, `From My Mexican Kitchen'. On which writer is more `authentic' I am taking it on faith that both authors are incredibly faithful to the tastes and the spirit of the Mexican originals while being very considerate of their gringo audience's kitchen equipment and skills.The one thing about which one may be disappointed in this book, based on the title, is that there is very little discussion of general regional differences. There is not even a dusty little map of Mexico and its regions. This is surprising in that, for example Penelope Casas includes a map of Spanish regions in all her major cookbooks and Diane Kochilas includes one in her excellent book on Greek cuisines. And, both authors give us recipes by region. Ms. Kennedy's omission is doubly puzzling as chef Bayless' first book, `Authentic Mexican' opens with a very good map of Mexican regions. This, of course, is only important if you are really interested in regionality, as when you plan to travel to Mexico. If all you want is recipes, this consideration is of no importance.Following the model of her spiritual mentor, Julia Child, Ms. Kennedy's recipes are exceptionally well written. To those of us for whom this is important, note that all volumetric measurements are given in both English and metric units. And, Ms. Kennedy's admonition on careful measurement, regardless of the unit, is well taken. In spite of the fact that these are interpretations of very provincial recipes, Ms. Kennedy goes to great lengths to add warnings and suggestions regarding what can be prepared in advance, what should be served immediately, and what can be refrigerated or frozen safely, without loosing flavor or texture.This book is not compulsively chatty, if that is something which annoys you. Many recipes have short headnotes, but not all recipes do. The overall book is organized by type of recipe, which makes it ideal for quick reference. In that regard, it is much better than Mr. Bayless PBS tie-in volumes. I went directly to the egg recipe chapter and was greeted immediately with the familiar `Huevos Rancheros', only to discover that Ms. Kennedy does anticipate Mr. Bayless a bit (and copies her Julia Child model as well) by separating the Salsa Ranchera recipe from the egg recipe with citations in the Salsa recipe for the dishes in which it is used.I do not miss pictures in cookbooks, but if you do, go for Bayless' first book, `Authentic Mexican'. Otherwise, if you simply need Mexican recipes, pick this book first, especially as Ms. Kennedy is a better and more engaging writer than chef Bayless in his first book. My only real regret with this book is that there is no `analytical' listing of recipes by Mexican region. Otherwise, this is a real classic!

It's easy to attach hyperbolic statements to something you recently bought or discovered as being "the best" or "indispensable" but in this case, I believe whatever superlative you'd like to attach to this book or ANY book by Diana Kennedy is hardly hyperbolic. This truly is the best Mexican cuisine cookbook out there by Mexico's adopted daughter of 50+ years, Diana Kennedy, whose story is wonderful and her dedication to learning and documenting these recipes is a true gift to us all. Every recipe has been delicious, simple and authentic; nothing more, nothing less. You can tell with each recipe in it's simplicity and it's ingredients that there is no flair for the dramatic or desire to be unique here, just instructions for how to cook a cuisine that demands adherence to time tested traditions and cooking techniques and ingredients that reward you with truly wonderful food.If you're looking for "basic" Mexican food (think: typical Mexican restaurant menu faire) or an option or 2 for a dish you may be disappointed or overwhelmed as the recipes for popular dishes like tacos or burritos are quite literally 1/3 of a page and pushed aside in favor of hundreds of recipes you've likely never heard of, which really just means you'll have to search a bit to find something you're in the mood for. As an example, there are by my count 10 enchilada recipes but that's what makes this book so great: exploring something new. Also, as these dishes and their ingredients are super authentic not just to Mexico but in many cases to specific regions/states of Mexico it may be difficult sourcing some ingredients so be sure to shop well ahead of time as finding certain dried peppers or produce may require visiting several markets.The anecdotes are charming and make you want to page through the book and actually read it rather than just stick bookmark after bookmark in at the recipes you want to try and although there are no pictures you can just visualize each dish in the descriptions and what it will look like, perhaps even the smells that will fill your kitchen.Whether a curious home chef looking to try out a new cuisine or a Mexican food chef who thinks they've cooked it all, there is something for everyone in here and you will not be disappointed.

I am truly in love with these cookbooks. This book is brand new. I am truly happy with my cookbook. I love Diana Kennedys adventures throughout Mexico acquiring authentic recipes some handed down for generations a true account of what Mexican food is truly all about. No Tex Mex recipes here just simple fresh ingredients, herbs, spices and easy to follow instructions on how to prepare these delicious and wonderful recipes. I wont stop until I have all of her cookbooks. Anyone who thinks that Mexican food is just tacos and salsa is in for an eye opening surprise. If you want authentic Mexican food from all over Mexico then these are the books you need to have. I will certainly order again. Julie Esquivel