PCT 8 Port Bi-Directional Cable TV Splitter Signal Booster/Amplifier with Active Return Zero Signal Loss and VoIP Telephone Bypass,white

This product is NOT for satellite. This product does NOT boost the cable signal other than to maintain the same level as the original signal. If the cable signal coming into your home is not strong enough, this product will not help you. If the signal coming into your home has too much noise (interference) in it, this product will not help you and, chances are, even a signal booster may not help you. A booster will simply boost the noise along with the signal.The signal coming into my home is a good, clean signal. The problem was I needed to split the original signal too many times for it to retain enough strength. There were times the loss of signal strength would cause my HD picture to pixelate. If I tried to stream video game play to Twitch TV or upload videos to YouTube, sometimes my cable modem would disconnect because the modem was having to increase its upstream voltage too much when trying to push the signal back out to the cable system. This product fixed all that for me. I have been using it about 6 weeks and I have not had any problems with pixelated HD or modem disconnects.All 8 ports put out the same level as the original signal - in both directions, upstream and downstream. Both directions is important nowadays with the use of HD boxes, cable modems, etc. Those devices need to return signals, not just receive them (Video On Demand, anyone??). Using this product is like you haven't split the signal at all. If the signal coming into your home is good but you need to split it, I highly recommend this product for you. If you don't need 8 ports, they also make a 4 port version.Some reviewers say their shipment included a power supply, others say it didn't. Mine included the power supply. It does NOT include the piece of cable you will need to hook the power supply to the splitter. If the splitter is going to be somewhere near an electrical socket, you can purchase (or make) a 3ft section, 6ft section, or whatever length you need to reach. It's just standard cable. If the splitter will be too far from a socket, or it just isn't feasible to run another cable in your situation, you can do like me and purchase a power inserter. That handy little device will allow you to tap into an existing cable run to power the splitter, instead of having to make a new run.There are clear instructions (with pictures) included with the splitter that explain how to hook the power supply. They cover both methods, with and without using a power inserter. I am very impressed with how well-made and durable the product appears to be. Definitely 5 stars from me.

Works very well for my application.Setup: TWC Digital Cable Triple Play with dual cable modems (one for VOIP and one I purchased for internet.)1. Connecting 1 Samsung STB (Active Return Port)2. Connecting 1 Arris 6183 Cable Modem (Active Return Port)3. Connecting 1 Arris eMTA VOIP modem (Passive Return.)I have an external split out of my home where I'm losing -3.5 of the signal power, and where this is now connected, I had an additional 2 way -3.5 splitter, so my cable modem was "screaming" at 51.3 dBmV on the upstream channel. Ideally, the main cable in outside my home should go to this first, but I can't without A LOT of work to do that, so the passive TWC -3.5 splitter on the outside stays, and this compensates for the second splitter.Again, THIS IS NOT a substitute / magic solution for proper power/signal from your cable company. Make sure any issues with your signal coming in is resolved first. Use this to split your coax connections to components inside the house without losing signal/power with passive splitters.Very happy with this.Notes:0. I'm thinking of buying another and sending this to Dave for a "Mailbag" teardown ;) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f2Tr8r2j8wQ1. The unit does get warm -- I using this to cool it: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G05A2MU?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00 -- I'm powering it via USB to the Arris Cable eMTA VOIP box (but you can plug it into a power strip (adapter included)2. I'm using these to terminate the unused ports: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000Q5W84U?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s003. You can buy a 4/15 foot RG6 patch cable to connect the power supply to the power adapter for this, I got this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003FW4WH2?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s004. Results: UpstreamOn the Passive -3.5 splitter:1 Locked ATDMA 7 5120 Ksym/sec 30600000 Hz 50.8 dBmV2 Locked ATDMA 6 5120 Ksym/sec 24200000 Hz 51.3 dBmV3 Locked TDMA 5 2560 Ksym/sec 19400000 Hz 50.0 dBmV4 Locked ATDMA 8 2560 Ksym/sec 37000000 Hz 48.3 dBmVAfter replacing the passive splitter with this one, my 4 upstream channels are:Channel Lock Status US Channel Type Channel ID Symbol Rate Frequency Power1 Locked ATDMA 7 5120 Ksym/sec 30600000 Hz 44.3 dBmV2 Locked ATDMA 6 5120 Ksym/sec 24200000 Hz 45.5 dBmV3 Locked TDMA 5 2560 Ksym/sec 19400000 Hz 45.5 dBmV4 Locked ATDMA 8 2560 Ksym/sec 37000000 Hz 43.3 dBmV5. Downstream Before:Channel Lock Status Modulation Channel ID Frequency Power SNR Corrected UncorrectablesChannel Lock Status Modulation Channel ID Frequency Power SNR Corrected Uncorrectables1 Locked QAM256 16 369000000 Hz -3.1 dBmV 36.7 dB 0 02 Locked QAM256 2 285000000 Hz -2.9 dBmV 36.8 dB 0 03 Locked QAM256 3 291000000 Hz -3.1 dBmV 36.9 dB 0 04 Locked QAM256 4 297000000 Hz -3.2 dBmV 36.9 dB 0 05 Locked QAM256 5 303000000 Hz -3.2 dBmV 36.8 dB 0 06 Locked QAM256 6 309000000 Hz -3.1 dBmV 36.8 dB 0 07 Locked QAM256 7 315000000 Hz -3.3 dBmV 36.9 dB 0 08 Locked QAM256 8 321000000 Hz -3.2 dBmV 36.7 dB 0 09 Locked QAM256 9 327000000 Hz -3.1 dBmV 36.9 dB 0 010 Locked QAM256 10 333000000 Hz -3.2 dBmV 36.9 dB 0 011 Locked QAM256 11 339000000 Hz -2.9 dBmV 36.9 dB 0 012 Locked QAM256 12 345000000 Hz -3.0 dBmV 36.8 dB 0 013 Locked QAM256 13 351000000 Hz -3.1 dBmV 36.9 dB 0 014 Locked QAM256 14 357000000 Hz -3.0 dBmV 36.9 dB 0 015 Locked QAM256 15 363000000 Hz -3.1 dBmV 36.8 dB 0 016 Locked QAM256 1 279000000 Hz -2.9 dBmV 36.9 dB 0 0Downstream After:Channel Lock Status Modulation Channel ID Frequency Power SNR Corrected Uncorrectables1 Locked QAM256 16 369000000 Hz 0.9 dBmV 38.1 dB 0 02 Locked QAM256 2 285000000 Hz 1.0 dBmV 37.2 dB 0 03 Locked QAM256 3 291000000 Hz 0.7 dBmV 37.3 dB 0 04 Locked QAM256 4 297000000 Hz 0.8 dBmV 37.6 dB 0 05 Locked QAM256 5 303000000 Hz 0.8 dBmV 37.5 dB 0 06 Locked QAM256 6 309000000 Hz 1.0 dBmV 37.6 dB 0 07 Locked QAM256 7 315000000 Hz 0.9 dBmV 37.6 dB 0 08 Locked QAM256 8 321000000 Hz 1.0 dBmV 37.7 dB 0 09 Locked QAM256 9 327000000 Hz 1.0 dBmV 37.8 dB 0 010 Locked QAM256 10 333000000 Hz 0.9 dBmV 37.9 dB 0 011 Locked QAM256 11 339000000 Hz 0.9 dBmV 37.8 dB 0 012 Locked QAM256 12 345000000 Hz 0.9 dBmV 37.8 dB 0 013 Locked QAM256 13 351000000 Hz 0.8 dBmV 38.1 dB 0 014 Locked QAM256 14 357000000 Hz 0.9 dBmV 38.3 dB 0 015 Locked QAM256 15 363000000 Hz 0.8 dBmV 38.2 dB 0 016 Locked QAM256 1 279000000 Hz 1.0 dBmV 37.6 dB 0 0

The product itself is a dream but if you're with any cable company, they'll give you lip about it if you ever have service calls.The product instantly improved things in our older home as far as cable functionality including on-demand features which require two way communication.Eventually we got the cable company to admit that the 20 year old "drop" or line that goes from the pole to our house needed to be replaced and that was the final piece to actually having well functioning cable.This piece helped though. I even did some testing both before and after the drop was replaced by removing it from the functional cable paths for a period of time and then re-adding it to confirm that we consistently got better functioning cable service through the house using it vs. not using it.The few times we've had service calls the tech has always complained or commented about the non-standard equipment. I just tell them to feel free to remove it from the functional path of the cable if they wish for their diagnostics and repair, which has always been found to be completely unrelated, then I put it back in after they leave.I'd reccomend upgrading all internal wires and hardware if you're in an older home and trying to get solid functional "on-demand" or interactive features to work reliably. If that doesn't work be persistent with your cable company until they actually determine the real root cause, and consider bying this high quality splitter as the icing on the cake.