Dorman 917-551 Manual Transmission Shift Re-Build Kit Compatible with Select Ford / Mazda / Mercury Models (OE FIX)

Excellent repair kit. Exact fit for my '95 F150. The instructions were great. The only issue I had was that the photos were too dark to see. I called Dorman and they sent me a great color PDF file in minutes.

I bought this product for a 1992 Ford Ranger that I bought over the weekend. The shifter was pretty loose and I found this product as a solution as I was digging around online. I had a hard time finding if this specific product would fit on my truck (I am sure it is an easy find for most) but thought I would give it a shot anyway, per the customer reviews for similar models/years.After watching a few YouTube videos, I went at it last night. The only thing I had to run to the store to buy was one of those star bits that are used to take off the three screws at the top of the shifter casing. Went to Auto Zone and was able to buy a whole set for about fifteen bucks.Overall, it only took 5-10 minutes once I had all of the parts. I wasn't able to get the pins out, so I just folded up the bottom bushing and pushed it below the pins before dropping the shifter part back in. The pins seemed to still have enough life in them and, once I put it all back together, it made the difference I was looking for. With the reviews of the new pins not fitting well anyway, it wasn't worth the hassle of loosening them up to just put the old ones back in again. I will say that the bottom bushing did have some play between the bottom and the pins... It didn't sit as snug as I was thinking it would. There WERE two metal spacers that came out of it so I may go back in and add them to the bottom at some point.One other thing is that there was another random, black circular piece that I wasn't sure what to do with. On the videos I saw, the other kits didn't come with it. And the instructions literally just said something like "add this piece" and didn't say where or have a photo of where to put it (lol hmmm helpful)... So, I just have it stashed with the parts that I replaced in case I figure that out.Long story, long... I would buy this product again! Seems to be working well and is worth it for the price. Took it for a drive last night with the pup in the front seat with me. She seems pleased as well.

After years of shifting with a wobbly shifter and guessing what gear it’s in, it is finally fixed and feels like new again.

Have dealt with the shifter shaking around like crazy while driving for more than a decade now on our old pickup. Shook so bad the shifter knob had shook itself off years ago. Have attempted to epoxy it back on the splined shifter shaft a few times but it wouldn't hold for long. I'd just shove it back over the shaft and try to hold it in place while driving. lolWhen it finally came time to replace the clutch I had to remove the shifter, so was a good time to add this kit before I put it all back in. It was easy to do with the transmission out of the truck. I'm not so sure knocking the pins out and replacing them would have been as easy with the tranny still in. At least in my truck it would have been pretty tight. If you're doing this on an M5OD in an F150 you might want to pull the carpet up and remove the whole plate from the floorboard so you can better get at it. That's not an option in the B2500/Ranger.This kit came with instructions that were not particularly useful. The pictures to each step were waaaay too dark to see anything. Would have been much better to have had a simple exploded diagram showing all the pieces in the correct assembled order. That said, wasn't hard to figure out.Shifter is now nice and tight like it should be. Well, maybe not like new but pretty close. Even got around to modifying the shifter to accept a threaded on custom shifter knob.

I purchased this for my 1993 F150. It has a 5 speed manual transmission, and over time, it got sloppy with lots of movement in the shifter. It's a slow degradation, so it's not drastic enough to get in the truck one day and go "Wow, this is bad". Enter this rebuild kit. This kit addresses all the problems with a sloppy shifter. Basically, there are nylon bushings above and below the shifter stub. The shifter stub is attached at the top to the shifter handle and below, movement in the shifter handle moves the stub to change gears in the transmission. The nylon bushing degrade over time and this is why the shifter handle feels like there's a lot of excess movement.The replacement procedure is quite simple. This is very important in order to make the change easier. Put the parking brake on, chock the wheels and put the transmission in neutral. Take off the rubber boot at the base of the shifter. Mine was held on with 4 screws. Lift the boot and rubber plate under it to gain access to the top of the transmission.A wedge type bolt along with a 17 mm nut holds the shifter handle to the shifter stub. Loosen the nut and remove completely. Install the nut on the other side of the bolt and tighten. The tightening action will draw out the wedge type bolt. Once loosened enough you can either tap out the bolt with a small ball peen hammer or use a pair of channel locks to push out the bolt. Just place one end of the channel locks on the end of the bolt on the 1st side (the one where you loosened the nut) and the other end of the channel locks on the other side of the shift lever body and squeeze. Note the bolt's orientation upon removal.Remove the shifter handle. Notice the large, flat groove near the top of the shifter stub. Note its position, as this is the groove where the wedge bolt rides to hold the shifter handle captive on the stub. Remove the 3 torx screws holding the cap in place.You should see a compression / wavy washer and the top of one of the bushings. If the parts aren't all broken up, you can just pull out the shifter stub and the washer and bushing will come out with it. The lower bushing is held captive by two pins in the 3 and 9 o'clock positions. Use whatever you need to punch these out. A small hammer and a drift punch works well. Just make sure you don't scratch or gouge the area in which the bushing will rest. Remove the lower bushing and compression / wavy washer (if present) once the pins are out of the way.Installation is the reverse of removal. A small amount of a light grease can be put on the bushings. I used a silicone based grease to reduce the hardening some greases exhibit in cold weather. An item of not is the bushing kit may come with 2 compression washers. Some folks use both, usually 1 at the bottom under the lower bushing and 1 at the top over the upper bushing, in an effort to tighten then shift feel even more. The Dorman kit comes only with 1 washer, and this was sufficient for me. The re-install directions that follow account for only 1 washer.Drop the lower bushing in place and align the cutouts to the area where the pins will protrude. Push the pins into place, install the shifter stub in the proper orientation (it should drop easily drop into place if the transmission is in neutral), install the upper bushing again aligning the cutouts to the pins, install the compression washer and finally the cap. Install the shifter handle, insert the wedge bolt to hold it captive, tighten down the nut, install the rubber plate and boot and you're done.

Fits like the original! Fast shipping, great price !

Works perfectly for any Ford from the '80s to and up to 2000s

Good product

Se ajustó perfectamente a la transmisión manual de mi Ford Ranger 1993

This fit good and solved the problem of oil leak in top of transmission.

Tenia dudas al principio de realizar la compra ya que las imagenes lucian muy diferentes a mis piezas a remplazar, pero una vez que recibi el kit simplemente me sorprendi gratamente y sobre todo lo sencillo y practico de instalar. Aunque las instrucciones vienen en ingles la ayudas visuales te van guiando para ejecutar el trabajo de manera sencilla.

Fit my ford ranger 2008Make the shifter firm